Saturday, May 23, 2020

GEMS THROUGH THE AGES

GEMS THROUGH THE AGES

PEOPLE EVERYWHERE, throughout history, have followed a natural instinct to collect things of beauty and value, and have used whatever gems they found locally - from shells to sapphires to adorn themselves. Today, the whole range of the world's gems is available to those who can afford them There are more gem-producing areas than ever before, new stones are on the market, and jewellery designs continue to evolve. But the inherent attraction of gems their beauty, durability, and rarity - remains the same.


First Uses

Gem materials were probably first used as much for their durability as their beauty. But beauty was not ignored, even then. For example, the Stone Age obsidian axe below has been wrought to be attractive as well as practical, and ancient civilizations did fashion gems purely for adornment. Although most were primitive in design, some were highly intricate, with painted surfaces. Down the ages, gems have also been offered as prestigious gifts, and their portability and intrinsic value gave them a natural use as currency.






EARLY COLLECTORS 


The earliest collectors found gems with no more equipment than a stick or shovel, a basket, and a sharp eye. Similar Stone Age tools found in the Mogok area of Burma show that rubies have been mined there for thousands of years - and the same methods of panning the stream with wicker baskets are used today. Evidence of more organized early mining - for example, abandoned mines and waste dumps is found in the Urals of Russia, on the shores of the Mediterranean, in Cornwall, England, and in many other places worldwide.





ANCIENT JEWELLERY 

Very little jewellery made before the 18th century services. The best examples are probably those of Ancient Egypt, much of it gold set with gems such as turquoise, lapis lazuli, and carnelian. It shows the great skill of the Egyptian goldsmiths: the gold refined, annealed, and soldered; the probably using silica sand, a technique also known to the Ancient Chinese. The Romans fashioned - went on to develop the polished stone rather than the setting. The art of the goldsmith and lapidary survived in the Dark Ages, though in medieval times gothic style was functional - mainly buckles, clasps, and rings.




UP TO THE PRESENT With the discovery of the Americas in the 15th century, European trade in gemstones expanded, and 16th- ahd 17th-century jewellers could use gems from all over the world. With the rise of an affluent merchant class, jewellery became more widely owned, · and diamonds first became fashionable. In the 20th century, an increase in demand for affordable gems, and the scarcity of the most valuable, will doubtless continue the trend to use more varied gem species in jewellery.




GEM-ENCRUSTED MODERN BROOCH 


Jewellery has passed through many styles, from baroque in the 16th century and floral themes in the 17 th, to art deco and beyond in the 20th.





Sunday, May 17, 2020

POLISHING CARVING AND ENGRAVING

PRECIOUS METALS AND GEMS usually I massive, microcrystalline stones and organics-can be worked by polishing, carving, or engraving. Polishing is the oldest form of fashioning. Carving produces three-dimensional objects by cutting them from a larger mass of material. Engraved images are made by scratching out lines or holes, or by cutting away to leave a raised image. Carving and engraving require tools harder than the material being worked.




Polishing



The shine given to the surface of a stone - either by rubbing it with grit or powder, or against another stone - is its polish. Dark- colored gemstones and those that are translucent or opaque, for instance opal and turquoise, are often polished rather than faceted, as are organic gems. They may be polished as beads or as flat pieces to be used in inlay work, or cut en cabochon with a smooth, rounded surface and usually a highly polished domed top and flat base.


Carving

Carving usually refers to the cutting of decorative objects from a larger mass. Stones as hard as 7 on the Mohs' scale were carved in Ancient Egypt, Babylonia, and China. Impure corundum (emery) was used for carving and engraving in India; nowadays a hand-held chisel or turning machine is used. Popular stones for carving include serpentine, Blue John, malachite, azurite, rhodonite, and rhodochrosite




 CHINESE CARVING Carving of gemstones in China dates back to the Neolithic period. The most prized material was imported nephrite jade, and decoratice objects like this model pagoda are still made.




Engraving

 Engraving usually refers to the decoration of the surface of a gemstone by the excavation (scratching out) of lines, holes, or trenches with a sharp instrument, known as a graver or turin. Of all engraved objects, cameos and intaglios are perhaps the most popular. A cameo is a design (often a human profile) in flat relief, around which the background has been cut away. In an intaglio it is the subject, not the background, that is cut away, creating a negative image that may be used as a seal in clay or wax. Intaglios were particuiarly popular with the Ancient Greeks and Romans, and are still prized by collectors.



GOLD ENGRAVING



The surface of gold and other precious metals used in jewellery may be decorated with intricate patterns, using a hand-held chisel called a graver. Engraved gemstones gained prominence in Europe in the Renaissance period. During the Elizabethan period in Britain cameo portraits were often given as gifts, particulariy among the nobility. All through the ages, layered stones have been used for cameos or intaglios, with onyx and sardonyx particulariy popular. Other gems suitable for engraving include rock crystal, amethyst, citrine, beryl, peridot, garnet, lapis lazuli, and hematite, as well as organic materials such as ivory and jet.


MODERN DESIGNS 



This citrine prism, with its clean, architectural lines and exquisite engraving, demonstrates the flair and craftmanship of modern designers. Its maker, Bernd Munsteiner, uses conventional cuts to create classic modern jewels akin to pieces of sculpture. Bernd Munsteiner is one of many artists working in Idar-Oberstein in Germany. Together with Hong Kong, Idar- Oberstein is considered to be one of the most important centres for gemstones today.


Thursday, May 14, 2020

Faceting

                            FACETING


THE MOST USUAL METHOD of fashion- features, taking into account its color, fashioning a gem is to cut the surface into a clarity, and weight. He may, however, number of flat faces, known as facets. This gives the stone its final shape, or "cut". The craftsman, or lapidary, who cuts the stone aims to show its best have to compromise to retain weight and therefore value. The blue diagrams on the opposite page show the most popular cuts.


How A STONE IS FACETED

 There are several stages in the cutting of a gemstone, each of which may be carried out by a different expert. In our example, a rough diamond crystal is fashioned into a brilliant- cut. This is the most popular cut for this stone because it maximizes the gem's naturally strong light dispersion. How- ever, because each stone is a different shape, or has imperfections within it, or because retaining the weight is of paramount importance, the cut in its ideal form (the "make") may not be possible. Nevertheless, the essential aim is to make the diamond bright and "sparkling", showing flashes of color called fire. To this end, the size, umber, and angles of the facets are mathematically calculated. The rough crystal is swan or cleaved to obtain a basic workable piece, then turned on a lathe against another diamond to give it a round shape. The facets are then cut and polished in stages, and the stone is given a final polish before mounting.






BRILLIANT-CUTS 

The brilliant-cut is the most popular for diamonds, and for many other stones, particularly colorless ones. It ensures that maxi- mum light is reflected out through the front, giving brightness and fire. Variations in the outline give the oval, the pear- shaped pendeloque, and the boat-shaped marquise or navette.









STEP-CUTS 

The step-cut (or trap-cut) shows colored stones to advantage, having a rectangular or square table facet and girdle, with parallel rectangular facets. The corners of fragile gems may be removed, making octagonal stones - as, for example, in most emeralds.



MIXED-CUTS

 Mixed-cut stones are usually rounded in outline, with the crowns (above the girdle) cut as brilliants, and the pavilions (below the girdle) step-cut. Sapphires, rubies, and most transparent colored stones are cut in this style.





FANCY-CUTS 

These have several possible outlines, such as triangular, kite- shaped, lozenge- shaped, pentagonal, or hexagonal. The cut may be used for rare gems, or to make the most of a flawed or irregularly shaped gem.





😊

Sunday, May 10, 2020

NATURAL INCLUSIONS

                                    NATURAL INCLUSIONS


INCLUSIONS are internal features of gems. They may be solids, liquids, or gases that the crystal enclosed as it grew, or cleavages, cracks, and fractures that filled (or partly filled) after the host material finished growing. Although usually regarded as flaws, inclusions today are often seen as adding interest to a stone. They can also be invaluable in identifying a gem, because some are peculiar to a particular species, while others occur only in a particular locality.


MICROSCOPE




FORMATION OF INCLUSION

Solid inclusions have usually formed before the host stone - the crystals of the host have grown around them and enclosed them. They may be distinct crystals or amorphous masses. Solids and liquid inclusions formed at the same time as the host are aligned to its atomic structure. For instance, the stars in star rubies and sapphires are caused by needle-like crystals of rutile, which formed parallel to the crystal faces at the same time as the host corundum crystals. Cavities filled or fractures healed after the formation of the host give inclusions that resemble feathers, insect wings, or fingerprints.



DIAMOND WITH GARNET

Solid inclusions may be the same gem type as the host,or different like the garnet in the diamond.




PERIDOT "WATER LILY"



 Inclusions that look like water lily leaves are a typical feature of peridot from Arizona, USA. They consist of a central chromite crystal surrounded by liquid droplets.




MOONSTONE "CENTIPEDES" 



These insect-like inclusions  are a common feature of moonstone. In fact they are parallel cracks caused by strain.



RUTILE NEEDLES 



This carved rock crystal perfume bottle contains inclusions of needle-like rutile crystals. Tourmaline and gold are also found in rock crystal.




INSECT IN AMBER



 Insects are sometimes found trapped in amber, caught by the sticky resin as it was exuded. Insects have been added to some imitation amber to create a natural effect..





ALMANDINE GARNET 



Magnified 45 times, the grey patch on the left is a rounded apatite inclusion. The bright interference colours to the right are due to a zircon crystal.





EMERALD (LEFT) 

Rectangular cavities with tails  are some- times found in natural Indian emeralds.


Thursday, May 7, 2020

Optical Properties



OPTICAL PROPERTIES

COLOR IS THE MOST OBVIOUS visual feature of a gem, but in fact it is just the optical properties of each gem one of many optical properties, all of which are dependent upon light. The individual crystalline structure of a gemstone  interacts with light in a unique way, and determines species. Effects produced by light passing through a gem are described here; those produced by the reflection of light. 


What makes color?

 The color of a gem depends largely on the way it absorbs light. White light is made up of the colors of the rainbow (spectral colors), and when it strikes a gem some spectral colors are "preferentially absorb- ed". Those that are not absorbed, pass through or are reflected back, giving the gem its color. Each gem in fact has a unique color "fingerprint" (known as its absorption spectrum), but this is only visible when viewed with a spectroscope . To the naked eye, many gems look the same color.







ALLOCHROMATIC GEMS


 Allochromatic ("other-colored") gems are colored by trace elements or other impurities that are not an essential part of their chemical composition. Corundum, for example, is colorless when pure, but impurities in it (usually a metal oxide) create the red stones we know as rubies, blue, green, and yellow sapphires, and orange-pink padparadscha. Allochromatic gems are often susceptible to color enhancement or change. 





DIOCHROMATIC GEMS


 The color of idiochromatic ("self- colored") gems comes from elements that are an essential part of their chemical composition. Thus idiochromatic gems generally have only one color, or show only a narrow range of colors. Peridot, for example, is always green, because the color is derived from one of its essential constituents, iron.




PARTI COLOURED GEMS

 A crystal that consists of different-colored parts is called parti-colored. It may be made up of two colors (bicoloured), three (tricoloured), or more. The color may be distributed unevenly within the crystal, or in zones associated with growth. The many different varieties of tourmaline probably show the best examples of parti-coloring, exhibiting as many as 15 different colors or shades within a single crystal.





PLEOCHROIC GEMS

 Gems that appear one color from one direction, but exhibit one or more other shades or colors when viewed from different directions, are known as pleochroic. Amor- phous or cubic stones show one color only; tetragonal, hexagonal, or trigonal stones show two colors (dichroic); orthorhombic, mono- clinic, or triclinic stones may show three colors (trichroic).







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Wednesday, May 6, 2020

CRYSTAL SHAPES

CRYSTAL SHAPES



MOST MINERAL GEMSTONES are crystalline, with their atoms arranged in regular and symmetrical patterns, like a lattice; a few are amorphous, with no or only a weak crystal structure. Crystalline minerals may consist of a single crystal, or of many in a group. Polycrystalline minerals are made up of many, usually small, crystals; in cryptocrystalline minerals the crystals are too small to see without the aid of a microscope. Crystalline minerals are made up of a number of flat surfaces called faces; the orientation of these faces defines the overall shape, which is known as the "habit". Some minerals have a single, characteristic habit, such as pyramidal or prismatic; others may have several. A lump of crystalline mineral without a definite habit is called massive. Amorphous gem- stones, like obsidian and tektites, have an irregular shape. Examples of common habits are shown right.



              


CRYSTAL SYSTEMS

Crystals are classified into seven different systems, according to the "minimum symmetry" of their faces. This depends on a crystal's "axes of symmetry"- imaginary lines (shown in black in the artworks on this page) around which a crystal may rotate and still show identical aspects. The number of times the same aspect may be seen - in one 360-degree rotation around an axis - defines that axis as two-fold, three-fold, etc., up to six.




AQUAMARINE

AQUAMARINE


Aquamarine is a color that is a light bluish tint of green that is in-between cyan and green on the color wheel. It is named after the mineral aquamarine, a gemstone mainly found in granite rocks. The first recorded use of aquamarine as a color name in English was in 1598.Aquamarine’s name comes from the Latin for seawater and it was said to calm waves and keep sailors safe at sea. March’s birthstone was also thought to enhance the happiness of marriages. The best gems combine high clarity with limpid transparency and blue to slightly greenish blue hues. Like many beryls, aquamarine forms large crystals suitable for sizable fashioned gems and carvings






As a consumer, you will regularly encounter in the marketplace gems that have been treated to change their appearance. A topic that often comes up is whether a particular gemstone is or isn’t treated. In a sense, humans alter all gem materials after they are found in the earth in order to prepare them for use in jewelry. Natural gem crystals are transformed from their rough crystallographic form into the shapes, outlines, and degrees of polish in the gemstones that we appreciate and wear in jewelry. These steps are and have always been the routine procedures used for manufacturing gemstones. Beyond traditional cutting and polishing, however, gems can often be treated in ways meant to alter their color or clarity. In addition to enhancing their appearance, the process may also improve (or in some cases diminish) the gem’s durability. Because these treatments are not always apparent to the unpracticed eye, and are sometimes difficult to distinguish even by experts, it is necessary and legally required for anyone selling a gem (including consumer to consumer trade) to disclose the treatment procedure it may have received.
Non-disclosure of this treatment could cause a person to believe that a particular gemstone was of higher quality naturally and therefore be more valuable than it actually is. An added challenge is that treatments can be permanent, long lasting, or short-lived under normal jewelry use. Treated gems may require special care by their owner. In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission has established a set of consumer guidelines outlining the need for treatment disclosures and special care requirements, and countries around the world either adhere to similar guidelines, or have regulations of their own. Additionally there are several professional organizations such as the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), or the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), or The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), that have formulated specific guidelines that their members are required to follow regarding the disclosure of treatments in gem materials. The following glossary includes terms that are often used in the gem treatment nomenclature, and that you may encounter when shopping for gemstones. Finally, treatments for gemstones are constantly being changed and refined, and the detection of these new treated gems is an important part of ongoing gemological research.

The following guide will give a short description of the treatment process, some gems for which the process is used, how easy or difficult the treatment is to detect for a trained gemologist, how often the treated gem might be encountered in the jewelry trade, and how durable the material is to normal handling procedures. Any special care instructions for these treated gems are also provided.





synthetic


A synthetic gem material is one that is made in a laboratory, but which shares virtually all chemical, optical, and physical characteristics of its natural mineral counterpart, though in some cases, namely synthetic turquoise and synthetic opal, additional compounds can be present.

Synthetic gem crystals have been manufactured since the late 1800s, and their production is often marked by a need for them in industrial applications outside of the jewelry industry. The first success was in producing synthetic ruby of faceting quality. Synthetic crystals are used in communications and laser technology, microelectronics, and abrasives. Because synthetics for jewelry applications can be “made to order” [i.e. consistent color and crystal shape] given the right ingredients, time, and the facilities to grow them, they are likely to be much less rare than natural gems of equal size, clarity, and saturation of color. Because of this, and because it is possible to confuse them with gems that are naturally occurring, there are strict guidelines regarding how they are marketed and sold.

In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission requires that any gem material produced in a laboratory be described in a way that leaves no doubt that it was not produced naturally. It is considered to be a deceptive practice if a synthetic gem material’s origin is not clearly disclosed throughout the distribution channel at the time of sale, from the manufacturer to the consumer. There are also a number of industry organizations such as the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA), and the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) that have formulated specific guidelines for their members regarding the disclosure of synthetic gems at the time of sale. In the last decade fewer new kinds of man-made gem materials have been marketed. This suggests that the repertoire of synthetic gem materials is close to reaching its limit in terms of the creation of new materials, but it is not limited in production which is still very significant. During the last century, researchers have developed a number of different ways to create these synthetic gem materials in the laboratory. Most of these methods fall into two major categories – melt or solution.

In melt processes, the chemical composition of melt is the same as the composition of the resulting crystal. In solution processes, the solution or melt has a different chemical composition than that of the resulting crystal. Constituents are dissolved in the solution or melt at high temperature, and the crystal forms initially on a seed crystal as the melt temperature is lowered. Some of the main synthetic processes include:







Sunday, May 3, 2020

Geuda Heat treatment


                      Geuda Heat treatment





Detailed literature survey is presented on gem minerals, corundum family of gems, colour in gem s tones and heat treatments. Physical and chemical investigations on gem minerals are conducted to understand the nature of treatable stones. Treatable stones are characterized by the presence of different types of impurities in the basic corundum structure. Optimum heating rates, cooling rates and soaking periods are established for geuda and ottu stones. Investigations carried out on over one thousand and twenty samples revealed that certain types of geuda stones can be converted into good blue sapphires while other varieties become light blue or dark blue stones. Removal of bluish and brownish tints in red geuda A comparative stones are not completely satisfactory. Study of the Lakmini furnace with the Toda furnace was carried out to ascertain the more economic one.



Burning machine (New)


Traditional system



As a consumer, you will regularly encounter in the marketplace gems that have been treated to change their appearance. A topic that often comes up is whether a particular gemstone is or isn’t treated. In a sense, humans alter all gem materials after they are found in the earth in order to prepare them for use in jewelry. Natural gem crystals are transformed from their rough crystallographic form into the shapes, outlines, and degrees of polish in the gemstones that we appreciate and wear in jewelry. These steps are and have always been the routine procedures used for manufacturing gemstones. Beyond traditional cutting and polishing, however, gems can often be treated in ways meant to alter their color or clarity. In addition to enhancing their appearance, the process may also improve (or in some cases diminish) the gem’s durability. Because these treatments are not always apparent to the unpracticed eye, and are sometimes difficult to distinguish even by experts, it is necessary and legally required for anyone selling a gem (including consumer to consumer trade) to disclose the treatment procedure it may have received.
Non-disclosure of this treatment could cause a person to believe that a particular gemstone was of higher quality naturally and therefore be more valuable than it actually is. An added challenge is that treatments can be permanent, long lasting, or short-lived under normal jewelry use. Treated gems may require special care by their owner. In the United States, the Federal Trade Commission has established a set of consumer guidelines outlining the need for treatment disclosures and special care requirements, and countries around the world either adhere to similar guidelines, or have regulations of their own. Additionally there are several professional organizations such as the AGTA or the  ICA or  CIBJO that have formulated specific guidelines that their members are required to follow regarding the disclosure of treatments in gem materials. The following glossary includes terms that are often used in the gem treatment nomenclature, and that you may encounter when shopping for gemstones. Finally, treatments for gemstones are constantly being changed and refined, and the detection of these new treated gems is an important part of ongoing gemological research.





After burning Process






Natural gem Stones in Sri lanka

             Natural gem Stones in Sri lanka


Yellow sapphire 2crt


Red Sapphire


Blue Sapphire




Multi color  lot

Silver

  Silver usually occurs in massive form as muggets or grains, although it may also be found in wiry, dendritic (tree-like) aggregates. When ...